In the Style of Frank Sinatra: Exclusive Offer on Menswear

<- 分享“上海美国商会”微信公众号到您的社交圈,让更多的人知道!

收藏文章 赞一个 已赞 2016-03-30 上海美国商会



服装是关于文化的。面料与结构上的重量感之外,同时也要在精神上讲究同样的重量感。 而谈及文化及精神的重量与热情,没有什么能比得上那呼啸而过、摇摆不定的二十世纪四十到七十年代了。

“Men’s fashion has a certain heaviness in fabrics and construction, but there is also heaviness in the feeling”. In speaking about cultural and spiritual passion, nothing can be compared to the roaring period between 1940s to 1970s.


现代西装在各种文化的交融下摒弃了燕尾型大开叉,而衬衫袖扣硬领、翼领的形式基本成型。西服也演变成了线条简洁、便于活动、且适合不同场合更换的简便着装。

Modern day suits, under the influence of various cultures, have forgone swallow-tailed large splits and taken the form of stiff collars, cuffs, and wing collars. Modern suits have cleaner cuts, use simpler lines, allow more mobility and flexibility, and are more wearable for multiple occasions.



三、四十年代音乐产业为人们的日常带来了活跃、激情与呐喊。音乐的演出形式也由乐队表演转变为个体艺术家。舞台上深情献唱的辛纳屈是那个年代的大众偶像,他凭借唱功俘获了无数歌迷,后者还对他的着装风格趋之若鹜。

The music industry in the 1930s and 1940s provided people with daily excitement, thrills, and screams. It was a period when music performance transformed from big band to solo artist. An outstanding singer of the time like Frank Sinatra was a national idol who sang sentimentally on stage and captured the hearts of many fans. Fans were not just avid about Sinatra’s way of singing, but also about his way of dressing.



四十年代中期,世界终于从二战的浩劫中复苏,天才设计师发布的女装“新款”在欧洲横空出世,并以迅雷不及掩耳之势席卷全球,深刻影响了美国。这一变化也影响了男装:西装肩部加宽、肩垫加高,彰显西服的严谨考究,同时腰身合体,下摆线条圆润,显示体型的优雅。《教父》的第一部中就采用了这种设计款式。

In the mid-1940s, as the world emerged from the end of the World War II, talented designers in Europe released “new looks” in women’s fashion, which quickly swept the entire world, and brought heavy influence to the United States. Influenced by the “new look”, men’s fashion designers widened suit shoulders and increased shoulder padding for a more rigid look, while creating a fitted waist through rounded hem lines for an elegant look, which was illustrated in the movie: The Godfather  part I.



音乐与电影行业的繁盛发展帮助美国从大萧条中恢复过来。辛纳屈与Tommy Dorsey合作录制了《I'll never smile again》,从初具人气一跃成为Billboard杂志的冠军男歌手。他随后进军好莱坞,终于在四十年代末期成为了当红银幕明星。

The boom in music and film industry sales helped a recovery from the Great Depression. Frank Sinatra’s rise to fame began with his rise to the top of the Billboard List as a singer through his co-recorded song “I Will Never Smile Again” with Tommy Dorsey. Subsequently, Sinatra moved to Hollywood and became one of the most popular movie stars in the late 1940s.



五十年代的男装偏重商务风格,男士大部分时间都西装革履。西装的材质以羊毛、丝绸、棉和法兰绒这样的稍具重量的布料。五十年代初时,男士着装基本大同小异,颜色通常为深色,如深灰、深蓝、深棕。随着时间演进,男装受到好莱坞电影中“商人”、“好丈夫”等角色影响,粗花呢和细条纹的样式渐渐受到大众的欢迎。

Men's fashion in the 1950s was based on business clothing and men were expected to wear a full suit the majority of the time. Suits were made of wool, silk, cotton and heavier fabrics such as like flannel. In the beginning of the decade, men dressed uniformly and conservatively, with little variation in their clothing.  Suit colors were generally in solid and dark shades of gray, blue, and brown although in later years, patterned suits in quiet tweeds and thin stripes become popular. Menswear fashion was influenced by Hollywood icons that portrayed the businessman husband role. 



西装通常设计为单排两粒扣或三粒扣,轻微肩垫将肩膀垫宽;搭配的西裤也同样用足布料。西服内通常搭配硬领白衬衫,,并以袖扣装饰。

The suits were made of single-breasted jackets sporting 2 or 3 buttons with slightly padded and wide shoulders. Trousers contained ample amounts of fabric. Shirts were white with less pronounced shirt collars, and starched to keep a stiff look, and generally adorned with cufflinks. 


燕尾服也是正装礼服的一种。燕尾服分有尾型和无尾型。领结有黑色或白色。在辛纳屈的专辑《The Main Event》封面上有一行小字:“最佳辛纳屈……当属穿着燕尾服的辛纳屈。” 

Formal wear consisted of tuxedos. Tuxedos could have tails or not, and bow ties could come in either black or white. When it comes to tuxedos, “There is no better Sinatra”, ran the album liner notes of “The Main Event, “than the Sinatra in a tuxedo”.



人们为辛纳屈迷离嗓音和穿衣风格深深吸引。尽管当时的男装主流棕色系服饰,但辛纳屈凭借自己独具一格的金棕拼蓝色和黑白礼服,开创了自成一派的时装风尚。

People were charmed by Sinatra’s voice and attracted to his dressing style. Although various shades of brown dominated men's fashion world at the time, Sinatra set the trend with his elegant suits in golden brown and blue, as well as black and white tuxedos. 


辛纳屈的感情生活也是鎏光灿灿。他与Ava Gardner的爱情故事也为人津津乐道。

Sinatra's love life was also gold and shinny, as demonstrated by his glamorous love story with Ava Gardner. 


辛纳屈专辑《The Best of the Columbia Years 封面,1943-1948

Frank Sinatra The Best of the Columbia Years  Album cover photo ca. 1943-1948


受到五六十年代经济发展与人权解放运动影响,人们不再苛求严谨的英式风格,并在靡靡之音中追求放松的感觉。西装的设计也更倾向于单排两粒扣、前摆直线型,搭配高领衬衫,如电影《赌场风云》中的造型。

The wave of economic development and civil rights movement between 1950s to 1960s have liberated people from the rigid British style. Fashion trended towards more casual style. Single breasted two button suits with straight line inseam, and high collar shirt became popular at the time, as shown in the movie Casino.


电影《赌城风云》剧照,记述三十到八十年代的拉斯维加斯赌场发展

From the movie Casino, about Las Vegas casino development between 1930s - 1980s 



50年代末,拉斯维加斯赌场中的辛纳屈

At the end of 1950s, Frank Sinatra as seen in Las Vegas


六十年代充满着动荡与叛逆,也充满激情的十年。60年代叛逆青年们通过穿着装扮公开反对社会主流文化。他们的装扮更倾向于贴身的西装外套以及鲜艳涡纹、波点和荧光色的大胆饰品。

The 1960s saw the rise of a new group characterizing unrest and rebellion against the establishment and conservatism of the prior decade. The group of rebels of the 1960s expressed their opposition to the mainstream norms of society through their looks. As such, the rebels preferred the opposite look of the mainstream classic suit, instead choosing more fitted suits, bright colors and patterns such as paisley, polka dots, and fluorescent colors adorned with bolder accessories.


波普艺术大师Andy Warhol在工厂的派对和时装秀

POP master Andy Warhol's Party and Fashion show in "The Facory"

 

1969年,纽约郊区伍德斯托克 Woodstock 音乐节汇集了一群痛恨越南战争的年轻人。

In 1969, angry young men gathered at the Woodstock Music Festival in young New York, as 550,000 American soldiers were sent to Vietnam


现代主义者对都市绅士男装的重要影响在于:意大利西装风格的承接让西装穿着更加纤细时髦:西装驳领变得修长,内搭衬衫更修身、锥形长裤、狭长领带以及尖头皮鞋(让腿看上去同样更加修长)。受甲壳虫乐队全球巡演的影响,黑色西装甚至衬衫内搭高领T恤或羊毛开衫开始受到青睐。

The Modernists had a big influence on menswear through their city gent look: a smart suit with narrow lapels of the Italian style, narrower shirt, tapered trousers, slim tie, and winklepicker shoes (sharp shoes with a pointed toe). Turtleneck t-shirts and cardigans were extremely popular and were teamed with blazers, and even shirts. The influence of bands like The Beatles and The Who was very evident. One of the most popular clothing colors was black.



然而经典西装并未过时,辛纳屈、肖恩·康纳利、迈克尔·凯恩等明星仍会选择穿着此类西服出现在大众眼前。。

However, the classic suit did not go out of fashion, with stars such as Sean Connery, Michael Caine and Frank Sinatra seen dressed in them.



七十年代的时尚体现了强烈的未来主义元素。这主要是受到了滥用药物的摇滚音乐界影响。

Fashion in the 70s was represented by strong futurism when Rock and Roll became Psychedelic Rock with drug use. 



佩斯利花纹也被称作“腰果花”。它形如漩涡,又颇似泪滴,起源于古巴比伦,本义象征生命的平衡与永恒。

Paisley Pattern, also called "bandanna", looks sometimes like a swirl, other times a tear drop. It traces its root to Babylon, symbolize balance and eternity of life.



随着嬉皮士运动以及爱与和平运动的兴起,佩斯利花纹渐成风潮,披头士乐队主唱约翰·列侬将他的劳斯莱斯轿车粉刷成鲜艳的明黄色,并以佩斯利花纹装饰,佩斯利花纹的风头一时无二。

With the hippie movement and love and peace movement, parsley pattern became unprecedentedly popular. John Lennon, the Beatles singer, painted his car bright yellow with Parsley Pattern all over.


Pink Floyd 乐队 Roger Waters



电影《王牌特工》中哈利·哈特说:“西装是现代绅士的战衣。”

“The suit is a modern gentleman's armor,” from Harry Hart in the movie Kingsman: The Secret Service. 




STEED & WALL 是本届美国商会慈善晚宴西装和拍品赞助品牌,可以为你打造Sinatra的时代华服。

Come to the STEED & WALL showroom to have our stylist dress you in Frank Sinatra’s style for 2016 AmCham Shanghai Charity Gala. 


Special offer on menswear exclusively to AmCham members at STEED & WALL between 3/31 - 4/18:


1) 50% off on any ready to wear and accessories (ties, bow ties, and hats etc.)

2) 25% off on any custom made suits. 

3) RMB 250-500 on suit rental for a week exclusively for the AmCham Charity Gala. 




棕色迷你格纹套西复古精致,直身廓形无压力演绎40年代的庄重优雅。同色系礼帽上的月白色缎带与衬衫呼应,配上粉红或大红色领带领结,摩登曼妙的40年代名流既视感立即呈现。

A brown suit in small plaid pattern brings out the elegant retro look of 1940s. When paired with a matching color hat with white silk band, white shirt, and pink or red bow tie, the 40s movie star look is re-created.




深灰色单排扣西装,前摆的优雅弧度加之气势如潮的枪驳领,活脱脱演绎了50年代崇尚人权,追求精神自由的情绪;黑礼帽,斜间条领带更突出了时代印记。

A dark grey, single-breasted suit with sharp peaked lapels symbolizes the freedom chasing 50s to 60s. It is best matched with black fedora hats and striped ties representative of the era.




浅灰色修身西装线条有如行云流水,质感纹理的灰色羊毛面料配上精致驳领切口带出60年代积极创新叛逆的情绪。

A slim suit in light gray with smooth, textured gray wool fabric coupled with an exquisite collar cut brings out the 1960s rebellion and creative feeling.



上流社会中的社交晚宴怎能缺少Black Tie的礼服呢?配合具有设计感的礼帽和袋巾,让整体造型更加生动时髦!正如辛纳屈所说:“穿着礼服是(绅士)固有的生活态度。”

A high society event would not be complete without formal attire. With a well matched hat and pocket square, the overall look is lively and trendy! As Frank Sinatra said, “a tuxedo is a way of life”.


本次的Frank Sinatra 之夜,男装高级定制品牌STEED & WALL将倾情持支持活动服装。

具体请洽:

电话:021 6631 1718 

邮件:info@steedandwall.cn

或前来展厅:

上海市静安区共和新路3088号祥腾财富广场  1号楼 103室


Steed & Wall, a custom menswear line, will sponsor the 2016 AmCham Shanghai Charity Gala "A Night with Frank Sinatra". Steed & Wall will provide styling services for gala attendees and exclusive offers for AmCham members. For more information, please inquire at: +86 21 6631 1718 or info@steedandwall.cn

or visit us at the below address:

Unit103, Building #1, 

#3088 Gong He Xin Road

Shanghai, 200070 China


if members come before the gala date 4/9, STEED & WALL stylist will give a consultation session to put together a 50s-60s look. An appointment will be needed for this arrangement, pls call 63111718 * 805 or 15618638418 to book a time.




 

上善若水—2016上海美国商会慈善晚宴


Do you remember?


Retrospective of AmCham Shanghai Charity Gala 2006-2015


一元捐 关怀自闭症儿童(转发越多 力量越大)


让下一代多读一本书 赢下一局棋 一元捐 同建河南乡村儿童图书馆 影响才能“奕”转


点击展开全文