“Men’s fashion has a certain heaviness in fabrics and construction, but there is also heaviness in the feeling”. In speaking about cultural and spiritual passion, nothing can be compared to the roaring period between 1940s to 1970s.
Modern day suits, under the influence of various cultures, have forgone swallow-tailed large splits and taken the form of stiff collars, cuffs, and wing collars. Modern suits have cleaner cuts, use simpler lines, allow more mobility and flexibility, and are more wearable for multiple occasions.
The music industry in the 1930s and 1940s provided people with daily excitement, thrills, and screams. It was a period when music performance transformed from big band to solo artist. An outstanding singer of the time like Frank Sinatra was a national idol who sang sentimentally on stage and captured the hearts of many fans. Fans were not just avid about Sinatra’s way of singing, but also about his way of dressing.
In the mid-1940s, as the world emerged from the end of the World War II, talented designers in Europe released “new looks” in women’s fashion, which quickly swept the entire world, and brought heavy influence to the United States. Influenced by the “new look”, men’s fashion designers widened suit shoulders and increased shoulder padding for a more rigid look, while creating a fitted waist through rounded hem lines for an elegant look, which was illustrated in the movie: The Godfather part I.
音乐与电影行业的繁盛发展帮助美国从大萧条中恢复过来。辛纳屈与Tommy Dorsey合作录制了《I'll never smile again》，从初具人气一跃成为Billboard杂志的冠军男歌手。他随后进军好莱坞，终于在四十年代末期成为了当红银幕明星。
The boom in music and film industry sales helped a recovery from the Great Depression. Frank Sinatra’s rise to fame began with his rise to the top of the Billboard List as a singer through his co-recorded song “I Will Never Smile Again” with Tommy Dorsey. Subsequently, Sinatra moved to Hollywood and became one of the most popular movie stars in the late 1940s.
Men's fashion in the 1950s was based on business clothing and men were expected to wear a full suit the majority of the time. Suits were made of wool, silk, cotton and heavier fabrics such as like flannel. In the beginning of the decade, men dressed uniformly and conservatively, with little variation in their clothing. Suit colors were generally in solid and dark shades of gray, blue, and brown although in later years, patterned suits in quiet tweeds and thin stripes become popular. Menswear fashion was influenced by Hollywood icons that portrayed the businessman husband role.
The suits were made of single-breasted jackets sporting 2 or 3 buttons with slightly padded and wide shoulders. Trousers contained ample amounts of fabric. Shirts were white with less pronounced shirt collars, and starched to keep a stiff look, and generally adorned with cufflinks.
燕尾服也是正装礼服的一种。燕尾服分有尾型和无尾型。领结有黑色或白色。在辛纳屈的专辑《The Main Event》封面上有一行小字：“最佳辛纳屈……当属穿着燕尾服的辛纳屈。”
Formal wear consisted of tuxedos. Tuxedos could have tails or not, and bow ties could come in either black or white. When it comes to tuxedos, “There is no better Sinatra”, ran the album liner notes of “The Main Event”, “than the Sinatra in a tuxedo”.
People were charmed by Sinatra’s voice and attracted to his dressing style. Although various shades of brown dominated men's fashion world at the time, Sinatra set the trend with his elegant suits in golden brown and blue, as well as black and white tuxedos.
Sinatra's love life was also gold and shinny, as demonstrated by his glamorous love story with Ava Gardner.
辛纳屈专辑《The Best of the Columbia Years》 封面，1943-1948
Frank Sinatra The Best of the Columbia Years Album cover photo ca. 1943-1948
The wave of economic development and civil rights movement between 1950s to 1960s have liberated people from the rigid British style. Fashion trended towards more casual style. Single breasted two button suits with straight line inseam, and high collar shirt became popular at the time, as shown in the movie Casino.
From the movie Casino, about Las Vegas casino development between 1930s - 1980s
At the end of 1950s, Frank Sinatra as seen in Las Vegas
The 1960s saw the rise of a new group characterizing unrest and rebellion against the establishment and conservatism of the prior decade. The group of rebels of the 1960s expressed their opposition to the mainstream norms of society through their looks. As such, the rebels preferred the opposite look of the mainstream classic suit, instead choosing more fitted suits, bright colors and patterns such as paisley, polka dots, and fluorescent colors adorned with bolder accessories.
POP master Andy Warhol's Party and Fashion show in "The Facory"
1969年，纽约郊区伍德斯托克 Woodstock 音乐节汇集了一群痛恨越南战争的年轻人。
In 1969, angry young men gathered at the Woodstock Music Festival in young New York, as 550,000 American soldiers were sent to Vietnam
The Modernists had a big influence on menswear through their city gent look: a smart suit with narrow lapels of the Italian style, narrower shirt, tapered trousers, slim tie, and winklepicker shoes (sharp shoes with a pointed toe). Turtleneck t-shirts and cardigans were extremely popular and were teamed with blazers, and even shirts. The influence of bands like The Beatles and The Who was very evident. One of the most popular clothing colors was black.
However, the classic suit did not go out of fashion, with stars such as Sean Connery, Michael Caine and Frank Sinatra seen dressed in them.
Fashion in the 70s was represented by strong futurism when Rock and Roll became Psychedelic Rock with drug use.
Paisley Pattern, also called "bandanna", looks sometimes like a swirl, other times a tear drop. It traces its root to Babylon, symbolize balance and eternity of life.
With the hippie movement and love and peace movement, parsley pattern became unprecedentedly popular. John Lennon, the Beatles singer, painted his car bright yellow with Parsley Pattern all over.
Pink Floyd 乐队 Roger Waters
“The suit is a modern gentleman's armor,” from Harry Hart in the movie Kingsman: The Secret Service.
STEED & WALL 是本届美国商会慈善晚宴西装和拍品赞助品牌，可以为你打造Sinatra的时代华服。
Come to the STEED & WALL showroom to have our stylist dress you in Frank Sinatra’s style for 2016 AmCham Shanghai Charity Gala.
Special offer on menswear exclusively to AmCham members at STEED & WALL between 3/31 - 4/18:
1) 50% off on any ready to wear and accessories (ties, bow ties, and hats etc.)
2) 25% off on any custom made suits.
3) RMB 250-500 on suit rental for a week exclusively for the AmCham Charity Gala.
A brown suit in small plaid pattern brings out the elegant retro look of 1940s. When paired with a matching color hat with white silk band, white shirt, and pink or red bow tie, the 40s movie star look is re-created.
A dark grey, single-breasted suit with sharp peaked lapels symbolizes the freedom chasing 50s to 60s. It is best matched with black fedora hats and striped ties representative of the era.
A slim suit in light gray with smooth, textured gray wool fabric coupled with an exquisite collar cut brings out the 1960s rebellion and creative feeling.
A high society event would not be complete without formal attire. With a well matched hat and pocket square, the overall look is lively and trendy! As Frank Sinatra said, “a tuxedo is a way of life”.
本次的Frank Sinatra 之夜，男装高级定制品牌STEED & WALL将倾情持支持活动服装。
电话：021 6631 1718
上海市静安区共和新路3088号祥腾财富广场 1号楼 103室
Steed & Wall, a custom menswear line, will sponsor the 2016 AmCham Shanghai Charity Gala "A Night with Frank Sinatra". Steed & Wall will provide styling services for gala attendees and exclusive offers for AmCham members. For more information, please inquire at: +86 21 6631 1718 or email@example.com
or visit us at the below address:
Unit103, Building #1,
#3088 Gong He Xin Road
Shanghai, 200070 China
if members come before the gala date 4/9, STEED & WALL stylist will give a consultation session to put together a 50s-60s look. An appointment will be needed for this arrangement, pls call 63111718 * 805 or 15618638418 to book a time.