拒绝现状的幽灵与神魔|毕业于圣马丁的时装界鬼才Gareth Pugh2018s/s

2017年09月17日 FOX国际艺术





拒绝现状的幽灵与神魔

毕业于圣马丁的时装鬼才Gareth Pugh2018s/s



Gareth Pugh


Gareth Pugh,毕业于伦敦中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院,和John Galliano、Alexander McQueen同为圣马丁毕业并且吸引许多媒体目光的设计师,建立自己的品牌仅仅两年,却收到了伦敦时装周上最令人渴求的入场券。


他的品牌设计理念充满了隐喻和象征,招牌设计则是关于“形式与内容”的实验性创作。通常会使用一些“夸张的荒谬外形,可穿着的雕塑”等理念去“有意识的歪曲人体”。各种风格截然不同的元素混合在他的设计作品中,使得处处充满了矛盾对立的关系,给人丰富的视觉享受。


2018春夏


ABOUT

This season, in a move that is becoming synonymous with the Gareth Pugh brand, the London-based designer invited his audience to the BFI IMAX for an exclusive screening of this fashion film, edited by Art Director Younji Ku, in lieu of the traditional catwalk show.




Nick Knight and Gareth Pugh continue their longstanding friendship with a film that expresses the intensities of Pugh’s collection for S/S 18, as conceptualised by Knight, Pugh and Carson McColl. French philosophical artist Olivier de Sagazan interacts with Pugh on both a physical and cerebral plane, pushing the boundaries of fashion imagery in their collaborative work with clay, water and paint. 

Katie Shillingford styles looks from Gareth Pugh’s S/S 18 collection against a set by Andy Tomlinson. A sea of bodies choreographed by Wayne McGregor surge together whilst Tessa Kuragi is encased in gold foil. 




Gareth Pugh与传奇的摄影师Nick Knight进行合作,以一部前卫电影的形式发布其2018春夏系列。电影将会围绕神魔主题,传达一种拒绝现状的理念。在整个系列中,你可以看到笼子般建筑的廓形、金属材质的面料、雕塑感的外套或者是一条红色的漆皮连身衣服,充满了未来感和科技元素,像是未来战士!




2018秋冬


Gareth Pugh’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection is an expression of lethal female resistance. 

Filmed amongst the brutalist apertures of a vast concrete arena, far beneath the streets of London, Nick Knight and Younji Ku’s fashion film reflects Pugh’s austere vision of a world on the precipice of anarchy. A world where the prevailing instinct is to build walls, reinstate borders and reclaim territory. Where the most powerful person in the world is a billionaire demagogue and self-confessed pussy grabber. 




 

Models including Erin O’Connor, Demi Hannah Scott and Hung Jee Park wear looks inspired by iconic cinematic references including Bob Fosse's Cabaretand Liliana Cavalli’s The Night Porter. The soundtrack – taken from the runway show at London Fashion Week in February 2017 – is based on CIA sleep deprivation techniques, with models moving to relentlessly looping tracks and lacerating jump cuts.


 

A continuation of Nick Knight and SHOWstudio’s collaborative relationship with Gareth Pugh, this fashion film explores the shared belief that fashion stands for more than a glitzy sideshow, that fashion can – and should – reflect our collective fears and fantasies.


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近期课程

2017-2018

名校保过作品集课程:TOP1-TOP10 (正在报名中)

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