宝石切割法以他命名!天价珠宝背后的男人,美国中文网微信公众号文章

陈世英蓄着一把略有花白的长胡须，颇有些仙风道骨的意味，身上却穿着挺括的黑色西装。这样的组合看起来有些矛盾，更有些疯狂，而他，就是天价珠宝背后的设计师。

1月28日，华裔珠宝艺术家Wallace Chan陈世英在纽约的库珀·休伊特设计博物馆(Cooper Hewitt，Smithsonian Design Museum)举办讲座，并带来了他的首部个人作品集《梦光水》与来会的艺术界人士和媒体交流。

虽然Wallace这次只带来了一件作品和纽约人民见面，但，这却是一件，非常了不起(技术上和价值上都非常了不起)的得意作品——《光含万象(Vividity)》：这是一个烟花造型的胸针和花卉形状的底座组合而成的一件大作，当然价格也是不菲，据我们了解，光是花心那颗硕大的碧玺，价值便在200万美元以上，而Vividity上面可不止是这枚大碧玺，红宝石、彩色钻石和粉色蓝宝石、还有这种我们叫都叫不出来的宝石，可是镶满了这枚大胸针，价值几何你们愿意可以大概一猜。

花瓣是艳粉与晶绿的激烈碰撞，像开屏的孔雀尾羽一般，美得浓烈张扬，自是引来了参加讲座活动的观众们各种观瞻，惊叹作品除了原料稀有昂贵，手工艺更是巧夺天工。

不懂手工艺的读者朋友们，不要离开此页面，听我们来用最朴实的话给你们讲讲Wallace的手工艺厉害在哪里。

世英切割

Wallace Cut

1987年，陈世英开发出了以他自己命名的“世英切割”(Wallace Cut)。这种切割手法是在宝石的背面钻个孔，在里面雕出一个反向的图案，于是，虽然只雕刻了一面，但是通过宝石内部多面的重重反射，形成了多面的立体幻影，令整个珠宝界都震惊了！

(In 1987, Wallace Chan invented “Wallace Cut” , a carving technique which creates an illusion in transparent materials by combining medieval cameo and intaglio into 3-dimension engraving. The resulting quindruple reflection unifies these features with precise calculation and angle casting and forms a 3-dimension and multi-line reflection. This is an unprecedented carving technology and won the then Hong Kong Jewelry Design Grand Award. And it was this unique, unconventional carving method that confirmed Wallace Chan’s status as a master sculptor.)

世英挑战

钛金属

钛这种金属可以产生夺目的光泽，引得无数珠宝师都想尝试将其用在珠宝创作之中，可是一直以来由于技术困难，没几个珠宝师能成功驾驭它。但Wallace经过8年的研究和实验，终于找到了窍门：他说道，“钛的温度需要达到1700度才能从固态到液态，但是这么高的温度下，空气中的其他物质会吸附，所以必须要在真空和惰性气体下去制造。”

(Titanium metal greatly enhances jewelry design possibilities because it is hard but light. Its weight is only 1/5 that of the same volume of gold, and it is extremely ductile. However, its natural resistance to casting and setting make it hard to go with jewels. After eight years of research on blending, casting and smelting titanium and metal, Wallace Chan successfully discovered the “Titanium Jewelry” technique, and launched a new series of fine jewelry collection featuring titanium as a key element in an innovative way at the world-renowned BASELWORLD in 2007. He has finally mastered the physical mettle of titanium and created his magnificent new fine jewelry art – wearable sculptural art. This made new strides for the international jewelry industry, and earned him countless international design accolades and respect amongst top designers and collectors from around the world.)