UAL’s fashion experts review the autumn-winter 2013/14 collections and reveal the shows that shone, the trends that triumphed and the designers destined for success.

Willie Walters, course director of CSM’s BA Fashion course names her stand-out shows as Meadham Kirchoff and Christopher Kane. Walters selected five designers as ones to watch: “Palmer//Harding, Huishan Zheng, Edeline Lee, Liora Lassalle and recent Central Saint Martins MA Fashion graduate Eilish Macintosh.”

“There was a marked increase of black used across the collections. I’m sure there is a theory behind this” observes Darren Cabon, LCF’s Course Leader of MA Menswear Fashion, Design and Technology. Discussing his highlight shows, Darren says “I am always keen to watch the next move of Prada and Miyake; the benchmarks of taste and technology. I was very impressed at the Céline collection. I am always keen to update on the latest in the Galliano affect on Paris – loving the new Dior shoes. This is fine-tuned styling at its best.”

Darren predicts that John Galliano himself is the one to watch. ” Never give up the faith” he avers. “I’m holding onto my faith with chipped fingernails at Saint Laurent but it makes me want to send Casablanca lilies to all of the stores across the globe to place under the iconic YSL logos, which all of the stores seem to have retained under the Saint Laurent banners.”

For fashion journalist, author and Pathway Leader  for CSM BA Fashion Communication and Promotion Hywel Davies the exceptional collections were Bottegga Veneta. “Tomas Maier’s expertise in cut and drape produced a collection that excelled the designer’s obsessive attention to detail.” Davies says. His other pick? Simone Rocha, whose “sophisticated girlishness in understated silhouettes are effortlessly cool and modern”.

Four menswear collections earned Hywel’s seal of approval: Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and Ann Demeulemeester.  Givenchy, for whom “exploring sport, sexuality, Greek neo-classicism and the US flag, Tisci employed Latinos and Mapplethorpe iconography to up the ante” was a particular accomplishment in a season defined by a new focus on menswear.  Hywel recognised the instant win potential at Dries Van Noten menswear: “Dries Van Noten’s previous grunge inspired women’s offering was an acclaimed success and he continued with the same nonchalant mood for his latest sleep over story.” Meanwhile a softer approach from Comme des Garçons and Ann Demeulemeester wooed Hywel this season: “ Innocence and naivety seemed to be the thread for the Comme des Garçons’ menswear collection and the non-contrived approach was refreshingly brilliant – both beautiful and slightly disconcerting.  Demeulemeester’s customer is romantic and not scared to blend the gender lines. Each season, the designer continues to develop her subtle and beautiful sensibility to respond to the ever-changing world of contemporary menswear.”

Of the new crop of designers Hywel was impressed by Richard Nicoll and Meadham Kirchoff, explaining Nicoll’s “boyish approach to womenswear fused luxury and casual”, while Meadham Kirchhoff “avoided the usual show antics and chose to focus on the beautiful, crafted clothes.”

Hywel predicts that Craig Green will be the one to watch next season: ” Shadows and reflections inspired the designer, whose references nod back to art and performance. Refreshingly original.”

As the last show drew to a close, Dilys Williams, Director of LCF’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion, reflects: “Watching a visual narrative of our times through the collections is always a treat, but this season the savviness of some of the designers’ approach to fashion as both artistic and business creativity gave a new dimension to the role of designer. Too many to name them all, in collections in London and Paris stood out for me, with outliers including JW Anderson, sheer brilliance in proportion, immaculately stylish, whilst in tune with our flexible lifestyles and our very own alumni too! Holly Fulton’s ability to delight wearer and viewer produced some of the most memorable of London’s images, again a Centre for Sustainable Fashion baby, whilst the masters of what London is about span Margaret Howell’s salon to Pam Hogg’s club night. Paris has so many incredible treats: Kenzo hit the sweet spot with its ‘eye of the beholder’ collection. Fashion at its best is where distinctive collaborators produce collective genius. Stella can taste what makes a girl rock in such an intuitive way, with a rare combination of beauty in aesthetic and integrity, whilst the mastery of Comme and Yohji both seemed to shine through stronger and more identifiable than ever. ”