MEN’S FASHION: RE-APPROPRIATING STEREOTYPES
by Talicia Ramsey
While an array of creative and inspiring menswear collections cascaded onto our catwalks at LC:M this month, we were left with more than just the outlandish prints and daring combinations to consider. Yes, menswear is somewhat in a ‘look at me’ stage, expressed this season by designers’ experimentations with overt sexuality, femininity and racial politics.
Perhaps this trend shows menswear beginning to align itself with the womenswear we see, repeatedly ping-ponging between androgyny and dainty dresses, attracting controversy through shows such as the Spring/Summer ‘13 Dolce & Gabbana show and the Rick Owens Spring/Summer ’14 show. Anything and everything goes on the womenswear catwalks, so perhaps putting a man in heels may not be such an outlandish thing to do anymore.
In an industry that can be oppressive to some men, a couple of designers challenged social constraints and created a multitude of pieces that questioned gender, sexuality and race. The Walter Van Beirendonck AW14 show loudly addressed racism as models wore large white feather headdresses with the words ‘Stop Racism’ painted across them. Named “Crossed Crocodiles Growl” the show fused strong patterns with an experimental colour palette – a swerve away from fashion considered traditionally ‘masculine’.
London based designer J.W Anderson caused a stir during London Collections: Men by also playing with gender. Creating pieces that would look suitable on both men and women, the designer had his models sport black leather purses, colourful metallic suits and those brogue heels. Expressing how he thought that gender dressing was a “dated concept,” J.W Anderson’s designs showcased a strong femininity where men dressed like women and ‘owned it’. From the slick knee-length structured coats to the high waisted black trousers paired with body revealing tops, everything about the collection screamed ‘power-dressing’ with a whole new meaning.
Versace also played with power dressing for their AW ’14 show. Exploring gay sexuality, Versace’s show characterized ‘camp’ with a strong and fierce edge. Taking stereotypically homosexual symbols such as cowboys, codpieces and bondage, the collection actively displayed male sexuality with models walking in studded leather jackets, bottomless leather pants and skin-tight, ripped jeans.
Tom Strangwick (blogging at theaffordablegent.com), a model in the Versace show, states that the collection conveyed “the idea of being gay and proud of it, mocking the absurd situations going on in gay rights in countries such as Russia and Uganda.” He thinks that in terms of Western men’s fashion, the industry is becoming increasingly open minded. “I think there’s quite a liberal view to men’s fashion,” says Strangwick, “more and more things seem to be acceptable which is great. I don’t think I’d be able to wear some of the things I wear now 10 or 15 years ago. I think the Swarovski cod piece almost symbolises that.” He went on to say, “I can actually imagine the show being a huge hit on the gay scene – the cowboy theme made it a bit like a glitzy, gold version of Brokeback Mountain.”
Whether it appeals to the commercial market or not, fashion is a statement and a powerful voice which addresses issues in our society. Maybe womenswear will eventually become an archaic word as fashion becomes an acceptable form of experimentation and expression for both men and women? We can only hope.
